July 9- I come to the ferry in time for the 9:30 ferry and realize that the far north is changing significantly- much of the land is owned by a Dane who lives remotely. The livestock is slowly being phased out and the young are moving elsewhere. I think that now is the time for people to come here- while there is still some of the old flavor. Today there are many for the ferry and I am able to get over earlier than I thought. There are many seals and I realize that I’ve seen more seals than deer. I walk back into town and smell licorice- wild fennel smells like licorice. All the lovely Remoteness means re entry will be hard as I start south. I take some time to see
Smoo Cave which is quite special- includes a small boat trip.
July 8-well, hard to align sometimes with how different cultures work. The ferry and bus ride to cape wrath: the weather turned overnight and we got wind and rain. I was up at 5:30 so I could be ready to hike the 4 miles on to the ferry terminal; however it wasn’t clear
If the ferry would be able to go. The innkeeper offered to drive me in- would have been great if he had offered that the night
Before- then we could have all slept later. And this bed was the best I’ve had:). Oh well. I call at 8:15 and was told the ferry should go, so another lady and I go to the terminal. The innkeeper asks if the ferry is going and was told it should go. You already know how this pans out- it doesn’t go for over an hour because they want more people. There is nowhere to sit and I have a very heavy pack. Finally we go- at 10:30. It is a beautiful area though. It’s 11 miles to the lighthouse along a very bad road and through the arms shooting range. No shooting today and found out the pod I am staying in for the night is also on the
Missile range. We drop my pack and head out to the lighthouse. Along the way we see a skua and it’s nest. The East coast Canada nd North Pole are the next landmasses. We are closer to Greenland than to London. As we drive, we pass Peat banks where peat is cut and left to dry. We pass the ferryman’s house and the house used by officers during fire range exercises. Each mile has a hand carved marker which was done by the lighthouse keepers. Now the lighthouse is all automated. On the return journey I get out about half way back and walk down to the sea where there is a Bothy. The area is very remote and I am very alone. I walk back to the pod and spend the night. The sheep keep me awake:)
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