Arriving at the End of the World and Completing the Camino de Finisterre

June 4, 2025- Continuing stage 35-A - Hospital to Cee. Distance 9.30 miles. Weather - 70s and partly cloudy. We finally saw the sea on our way to Cee. We are actually on the coast and as of today I have walked all the way across Spain. I can’t believe it and got quite emotional at the first view of the ocean.

Breakfast was as yesterday and we took the bus to the village of Hospital where we continued our hike westward. On the way out, we came to the crossroads - either we could walk to Muxia or to Finisterre. Our route was first to Finisterre, so we stayed left at the signWe entered a 15 km (~9 mile) stretch of isolated forest with no facilities until we entered Cee. Most of the terrain was undulating hills, gravel paths gradually becoming more sandy, and pine forests. Finally we got past the last ridge and had a long downhill to the coast.

We did see a Valkner! and I successfully saved buni from it. Other items of note along the way: Our Lady of Snows Chapel and San Pedro Martir Chapel. We also saw a guy who appeared drunk and another one (maybe the same one as yesterday?) in his underwear….

Cee is the largest twin on the Costa da Morte. It is called the Costa da Morte because of all the shipwrecks along the coast. This makes sense to me because neither of the lighthouses (in Finisterre or Muxia) appeared to be working….Cee itself was devastated by the French in 1829. It was a central fishery until this invasion which started a century of emigration to the West.

Bizarrely, on the way into Cee, we passed by the Alzheimers Association. Unfortunately it was closed.

Upon arriving at Cee, we immediately went for a beer and had lunch (baked padron peppers- my new favorite- and shared a salad and some Milanese chicken)

Our hotel is even a bit better here- 3 stars and has air conditioning!

June 5, 2025- finishing Stage 35-A. Cee to Finisterre.  Distance - 10.25. Weather- 60s, foggy and drizzly. I thought I would get through without another day of rain, but, if we had to have one, this wasn’t bad and I didn’t need my poncho or rain bottoms.

Leaving Cee one walks through Corcubion which has kept its medieval charm and made for a nice stroll.

The most emotional part of June 5 was getting to the top of hill and seeing Finisterre. I had some bad foot pain - same old injuries from before this trip - but my body is starting to rebel. A 5 minute sit down and I was ready to finish this up.

The lovely Langosteira Beach makes for a nice entrance to the town. This is probably where the original Roman town was as evidenced by the Roman artifacts found there. The town’s notoriety comes from its proximity to Cape Finisterre which is where the apparently non-functioning lighthouse is.

Finisterre is a lovely little town with some nice little restaurants near the Harbor, but more on that later.

We were quite early into town, but thankfully we were able to check-in. Our bags hadn’t arrived yet, so we decided to go to get our certificates and walk to the lighthouse. Since it was still too early to get the certificates, we had a quick snack of a sandwich/croissant and coffee before heading over to the Albergue to get our next certificate of completion (Santiago to Finisterre ). These were actually quite pretty and I really felt a sense of achievement.

From there we had to finish up our walk to the 0 KM sign at the lighthouse, so, up the hill out of town and through the fog. I expected a lot of fog since anytime there is a view on any of my travels the bad weather comes to destroy the view. I got quite emotional again as we arrived to the lighthouse (not working, even in the fog). There was a lovely cafe here and we had a celebratory lunch.

Amazingly the weather worked its way through and we had sun for the walk back. We took a new way back along the other side of the peninsula where we had some lovely views. Thank goodness we didn’t walk out this way since the hill was quite steep on this side.

Dinner was at the harbor and we did NOT have a Peregrino Dinner - thank heavens. I had gazpacho and the padron peppers. Chris had salad and peel and eat shrimp. This was quite a lot of work for him because they were very small, but tasty. After dinner we were set to take a boat ride to see the sunset, but it was cancelled at the last minute due to not enough people. This was a shame because the clouds parted and the sunset would have probably been quite nice.