Estella to Logroño

April 11, 2025 Estella to Los Arcos- 13.6 miles through one of the most beautiful valleys I’ve seen on a long time, maybe my whole life. Weather was good- rain held off and probably won’t be so lucky tomorrow. Had to repeat my walk of yesterday to the wine fountain, but had the advantage of losing a lot of annoying people because they stopped at the fountain and I didn’t. A German almost pushed me off the path, so was glad to see the last of them. Worked my way up the hills to the high point of Monjardin where I arrived about 10:30 in the morning. From there on was undulating/more down than up. The way was very rural until Los Arcos, the only facilities being a food truck about 3 miles outside of the village. It was run by a non-profit and had to wait on uncomfortable feet while the American girl taking orders had a 5 minute conversation with another American pelegrina. I didn’t care that the order taker was on her gap year and she prayed to figure out what to do on her gap year that brought her to work at the food truck. I wanted to sit down and get my pack off. Los Arcos is a pretty medieval town with a big church that was closed. Had a sangria and waited for my ride to my hotel in the small town of Mues having 60 inhabitants. I am the only pelegrino at the hotel tonight. Mues has a church built in the 1700s which now only has about 8-10 congregants. A wonderful local lady came to unlock the church and give me a tour - my shuttle driver Lorence joined to act as translator. Mies has decreased from 500 down to 60 as people go elsewhere for work. The rain has come. Dinner was asparagus, chicken and apple tart. Ot was a lovely dinner with the fire place to ward off the chill.

April 12, 2025 Los Arcos to Viana-11.5 miles. Weather was clear, cool and breezy- around 60F. Not much to report on this walk- the scenery coming a distant second to yesterdays. The only exception was stopping at the Church of the Santo Sepulchro in Torres del Rio. This is a delightful medieval town on a hill (of course). The church is very similar to the one I decided not to see- Einstein- so I feel justified in not doing the extra mileage on that long day. It is octagonal and sports a mix of Arabic and Christian themes. Also of interest was the La Virgen del Poyo/ old pilgrim hospital remains at the highest point of the day.

I’ve crossed to the end of the Navarre kingdom and tomorrow will enter La Rioja. Lots of batters fought along this valley and the towns kept changing ownership through medieval times.

There was a festival going on to welcome me to town.

The hotel is nice, but simple and look forward to a bath. While waiting to get some epsom salts I had some tapas and sangria and then rioja wine- then a long bath

I attended the beginning of a pilgrims mass at the church of Santa Maria- quite an elaborate church.

Dinner was uninspiring overcooked chicken breast and local cheesecake. I think the feet will be happy with a shorter day tomorrow.

April 13,2025- Palm Sunday. Viana to Logroño-6 miles. Weather was overcast with some light drizzle. Not much to see along the way. Am curious why some vineyards use wire to hold up the vines and others don’t. The vines are starting to sprout. Biggest thing today was making it to Logroño in time for the Palm Sunday parade which lasted for 3 hours. The churches are very rich and elaborate here. Had some time to site see- the village wall and the Rioja history museum. Lovely hotel and am here for 2 nights.

Section 2 continues.