Moving into Section 4: Stages 20 and 21

Section 4 stretches from Leon to Sarria and includes the Caminos highest point, but more on that later.

May 5, 2025 Leon to Villar de Mazarife. Distance; 13.5 miles. Weather - threatened rain all day, but only got a sprinkle.

Leon went on forever and I was sweating in my rain pants. After about 5 miles I was finally out of the Leon suburbs and back into a different sort or environment, more meadow. I saw rabbits and wild orchids.

I had a few hot spots on my feet after I loosened my boot to help my Achilles tendon. These did develop into blisters which I was hoping the lambs wool would prevent.

Not much to report for views. I walked briefly with Paul (aka Pablo which he like to use during the Camino), a retired insurance company owner from Texas. His wife worked in a college admissions office and wasn’t able to walk with him.

Caminoways (my trip organizer) was not able to find suitable accommodation in Mazarife, so once there I had to call a taxi to take me to tomorrow’s village-Hospital de Orbigo- where I was to stay 2 nights at a pension named “Our Lady of Lourdes”.

The innkeeper - MaryAnne - was originally from Portugual and I was able to practice my very rusty Portuguese. There was a bit of a panic when she said she showed me as here only 1 night as the second night was cancelled, but this was eventually fixed. While transporting my pack to my room I somehow bent my forefinger of my left hand (I’m left handed) at a bad angle and now have soft tissue damage. it’s swollen and a discoloured and who knows how long this will take to heal. At least it will take my mind off my sore foot.

Dinner was a simple affaire of veal based soup and salad with most of a bottle of wine - I didn’t feel any injury after drinking that much and I slept well.

May 6, 2025- Hospital de Orbiga to Mazarife to Hospital de Orbiga. Distance-9.25 miles, Weather - sunny and COLD (3 C in the morning)..

Breakfast was almost literally bread and water and instant decaf coffee with warm milk. The taxi was there at 8:15 to take me back to Mazarife so I could walk back again.

Very flat and straight walk amongst the back roads and fields. The mountains in the distance were beautiful and getting closer - I have 2 more climbs to do before Sarria.

The afternoon was spent doing some very quick sight seeing and then resting my feet.

The most interesting was the 13th C Paso Honroso Bridge and nearby jousting grounds. This bridge is one of Spains oldest gothic spans of which only 4 of its 19 arches are original. According to legend, in 1434 a knight was spurned by his lover and broke over 300 lances of his opponents to show his bravery, which did nothing to impress his lover.

Hospital de Orbiga was where the Roman road, Via Triaina, crossed the Orbiga River. It’s strategic location led to several battles and its name refers to its famous pilgrim hospital.

Dinner was cabbage vegetable soup and salad.

May 7, 2025 Hospital de Orbiga to Astorga. Distance: 10.66. Weather 60s and sunny.

Great to get away from the road walking and back up into some hilly territory.

Along the way I stopped at house of gods kiosk which is called out I. The guidebook as an original and quirky place. There was a great dog that should be on a football team. He loved to play fetch. I finally stopped for tea and a rest at San Justos de la Vega.

once in Astorga I was impressed by the Roman artifacts and quaintness of the town. I was staying at a lovely 4 star spa hotel. I tried to check in and the hotel reservation cancelled again. I forced Camino Ways to check all remaining 30 reservations. Luckily there was room in the hotel and all the other reservations were ok.

After checkin, I immediately changed shoes and started sight seeing. The first stop was the Bishops Palace and Pilgrim Museum designed by Goudi. I had to see the Cathedral And then on to the Roman ruins and museum. There was a local chocolate museum and a lot of local artisanal chocolate. This was all related to the conquistadors 500 years ago starting the cocoa trade. Other local delicacies include Mantecadas pound cake and hojaldres puff pastry dessert. I had to try it all..

Dinner was at the Irish Pub - not my choice, but as I pre-paid for dinner I went. No vegetables or salad on the menu, so I ended up having pasta which sat like a lump.