Section 2, stages 9 through 12A SDC to Atapuerca

April 18,2025- SDC to Belorado. Distance 14 miles, weather: sunny 60s windy. Unremarkable walk, through a lot of construction zones. Not particularly scenic, that said, some charming towns, especially Groños. Passed a fellow doing The Walk with his dog. If I see him again I must take a photo, he uses an interesting cart which is attached to his waist. Belorado is not a particularly scenic town and the churches were closed for Good Friday. Unfortunately my hotel is in Villamayor (the last town before Belorado), so I couldn’t see the procession or churches tonight. That’s probably ok, since it poured with rain not long after I arrived. Dinner was vegetable soup and cutlets with yogurt for dessert. No photos tonight since I had to eat with Mariam and Brian, a boring couple from Colorado.

April 19,2025- Belorado to Villafranca Montes de Oca. Distance 7.5 miles, weather: cold rainy, overcast. Love my poncho and leather boots which kept me warm and dry in the cold,wet, 30 mph wind. Churches all closed for the Easter festivities. Hotel has interesting history as the only surviving of the three medieval pilgrim hospitals. Am glad I’m in the hotel part and not auberge part. Dorm and common bath not for me.

April 20, 2025 (Easter)- Villafranca Montes de Oca to Atapuerca. Distance: 11.36, weather: cold and partly sunny. Had to leave an hour earlier than usual today to make my appointment at the Atapuerca archeology site - I had to arrive at  12:45- in order to make the tour starting at 1 pm.  My very first sunrise for this trip. The start was a steep uphill to the tops of the Montes de Oca for the first 3 miles and then a gradual descent into Atapuerca. The Montes de Oca are a ridge of rolling hills that separates the runoff from the river Ebro drainage - on one side going to the Mediterranean, and on the other to the Atlantic. I was lucky to meet some young Germans, one of whom, Mirabel, I fell into step with. Just having the companionship made the hill a bit easier and made the time fly. It was a lovely walk through a pine forest for the majority of the day. Unfortunately, she rubbed a blister, so I gave her my lambs wool and tape so she could address it. I also lent her a hiking pole until we got into the first town, San Juan de Ortega, where she took a break and waited for her friends. I continued on - all the churches were shut and I never did attend an Easter mass. I stopped for lunch in Ages which was a charming town, before continuing on to Atapuerca. Even with lunch I was 1 hour early for the tour.  The Atapuerca site was where the first early hominid remains were found in Europe, so had high hopes, but The tour itself was a bit disappointing.  It was a series of demonstrations of how early man made tools, hunted and started fire. I believe the still active site is right next to the demonstration area, so could see the mounds. Atapuerca itself was closed tight for Easter Sunday and the Inn is the most rural I’ve been to yet. No internet, no phone signal and nothing open. Thankfully I’m carrying extra towels and had to ask for toilet paper and hangers.  Dinner was garlic soup which I don’t think I’ll have again, and chicken filet sautéed in butter which was delicious.