Stage 19 - Getting to Leon, Finishing Stage 3 and a Day of Rest

May 3, 2025: Manzanillas de las Mulas to Leon. Distance: 11.2 miles, Weather: chance of rain, but was clear and in the 60s - light breeze.

With my stomach, and the weather, stabilizing my mood was greatly increased with the thought of finally getting to Leon and finishing Section 3 (not to mention the well earned day of rest). Finishing stage 3 means officially exiting the meseta and the endless rolling fields of grain with windmills that danced to the beat of my playlists.

This was a day to see animals. Not only did I see a bunny (too fast for a photo), but I saw geese. I also saw pelicans feeding their babies! Because of the rain the prior night, the black slugs were out in force. I almost couldn’t walk without stepping on them, but I did try to avoid them.

I left Manzanilla via the medieval bridge and continued along the side of a quiet road along side irrigation streams and it was very relaxing (as long as I avoided the slugs).

At Puente Villarmente there was an impressive 17 arch bridge over the River Porma.

Back into the big city and a rest stop in the town of Arcahueja, across the blue pedestrian bridge and the first views of Leon before descending into the city and the hotel.

Dinner was at an Italien place recommended by Carol (see a few days ago). I needed a break from the pilgrim fare, but, unfortunately the pasta was cold, so not particularly appetizing. Laundry and sleep.

May 4, 2025 - Rest day in Leon and Mother’s Day locally.. Distance - don’t know, but my feet/legs told me it was a lot. Weather - rained buckets - glad I wasn’t hiking.

Leon was established in AD70 as headquarters for the Roman 7th Legion. It has N-S streets and is encompassed by 2 solid walls with four city gates. In 1063 King Fernando I brought the bones of San Isidoro, Archbishop of Seville, to Leon and housed them in the Basilica of San Isidoro. The Cathedral of Leon is amazing - I can’t believe it’s 800 years old and was built within 100 years.

After this, the Basilica of San Isidoro is a poor second, but the museum had some beautiful treasures. There was one painting that was disturbing and depicted a saint being torchured and having his intestines pulled from his body - I moved on quickly. This was yet another museum where I couldn’t find the exit and I’m starting to think I need a keeper….

I think my favorite, after the Cathedral, was the Museum of Leon that had a wonderful historical collection of the area and a touching film about the Camino. The description next to the video said it all:

“On the old Roman Road that which had been the prehistoric road to the West, the legendary tomb of St. James the Apostle revitalized the road that linked finis terrea of Hispania to the lands beyond the Pyranees. The Route harmonized the Spanish kingdoms with Europe and helped populate the cities along side it, strung like Rosary beads, with men, money, and skills, attracted by this land of opportunity and crusade, this medieval “far west” known as Jakubsland, the land of Santiago. It was a single network of churches, inns and roads on which the images of the saint protected both Christian armies and the pilgrims who streamed in from the farthest reaches of Christendom.”

The immigration museum was shut to me, outside of which I was stuck in the worst of the rain, because they were giving a tour and they didn’t have anyone else to man the till. I didn’t want to see it anyway.

The Parador Hotel was very beautiful and the connected Monastary of San Marcos was a disappointment. What wasn’t a disappointment was the beautiful wisteria vines, shaped like trees and in full bloom.

I was hoping to hear the choir and organ in the cathedral and decided to brave the rain to go to mass. It turned out the mass was in the chapel. A much smaller and less interesting area. There was an organ, but no choir. The priest sang off key. Back into the rain.

Dinner wasn’t until 8:30 - the first place was closed and the second place wasn’t anything to write home about. I finally got the bill after practically walking out. i wouldn’t recommend that place, but it was all that was open on a Sunday night.