Zubiri

April 5, 2025, from the itinerary: Hike 21km (13 miles) from Roncessvalles to Zubiri. After the most difficult day of the entire Camino (SJPP to Roncessvalles), this is leg contains the most challenging descent in the entire Way. The brief challenge of a couple of 100m (300foot) climbs is overshadowed by the long and sometimes steep descents on this mostly downhill stage. Concrete paths are often available to make for better footing, but they can be slippery when wet. Between Linzoain and Zubiri the trail is very steep and slippery, made up mostely of shale and bedrock. Overall, however, a pleasant, wooded stage with occasional views and frequent village cafes for refueling and rest.

Towns traversed include:

Burguete - elevation 894M, pop 243: Ernest Hemingway lodged here between binges while fishing local streams in the mid 1920s. He desscribed the town in his novel The Sun Also Rises.

Espinal - elevation 867M, pop 243

Viscarret - elevation 781M, pop98 - used to be the end of this stage - now it is Pamplona

Linzoain - elevation 735M, pop 74

Zubiri - elevation 525M, pop 435. In Basque, Zubiri means Town of the Bridge. This is a modern take on the 12th century bridge over the river Arga. It is said that cows that walk three times around the bridge are protected from rabies. The main economic engine of this town is now the magnesium factory.

Weather: cold in the morning then partly sunny and about 70 degrees

Today’s walk and profile

Actual mileage was 13.8 with 1,000 fee ascent and 2,500 feet descent. The descent was as difficult as described and very slippery. Navigation was further hampered by being tired. We made it down without a mishap.

The day started out through a lovely forest area and gradual downhill. We went through several towns and eventually stopped for lunch at The Dragon where we had an excellent 4 cheese pizza. Rural Spain has a different pace which is still difficult to get used to - the pace is VERY SLOW. It took about 30 minutes for the staff to attend to the 5 people in front of us.

Walking along the sheltered forest track were many spring flowers - mostly violets.

Zuberi itself doesn't have much to recommend it. It was probably the cleanest town I've seen, but it's marred by the ugly Magnesium plant.

The Hosteria de Zubiri was small and simple. Of course we were on the top floor which meant lugging my big bag up 2 floors of small and winding stairs.

Our pilgrim dinner was in a restaurant a 10 minute walk away (just what we wanted after walking 13 miles). We had salad, Schnitzel and flan. It was uninspiring.

Walking back we stopped for a coffee before turning in for the night. We were kept awake most of the night due to sheep with bells around their necks and the church bells which rang twice on the hour. It helped a bit to close the window.